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escapade sailing

life on the ocean

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The Turquoise Bubble

This is it. Living in the turquoise bubble. Anchored in a huge shallow lagoon, no other boats in sight. Swimming, windsurfing, freediving, cooking our way through the supplies.  Sharks and rays cruise by.  Days slide by. After a few days my brain clicks out of gear into neutral. This is it.  The languor of the […]

French Polynesia

7th June This last leg was to take us a mere 300 miles WNW of Pitcairn, but we were tested by one more gale before we found shelter in the Gambiers. We had been getting along very nicely, with the occasional 12kt surf, when the wind completely changed gear and started to howl. Suddenly we […]

Pitcairn Island

So after ten long days and nights battling contrary winds and seas, we raise the green peak of Pitcairn on a Sunday morning. As we sail closer we can see swell surging around the dark cliffs and off-lying rocks, shrouded in a mist of spray. Above are coconut trees, sprouting from sheer rock walls, and […]

Easter Island, between a rock and a hard place.

21st May: The Rock The Original Polynesian name for this island is Te Pito o te Henua, ‘The Navel of the World’. A sticky-out button in the huge round belly of the Pacific. Then a passing Dutch navigator caught sight of it on Easter Sunday 1771 and named it Easter Island, while the islanders were […]

The rock, the windlass and the Russians.

Sorry for the long silence. I have been offline for weeks. I sent the last update to Dawn by satellite phone when we arrived in Easter Island, but text only, Dawn improvised some images. So now Dawn is back on board, we have all arrived in Tahiti, internet is firing, we will now post the […]

Galapagos to Easter Island

8th May So we are sailing away from Galapagos after 3 islands and 3 weeks. Most cruising boats sail straight past the Galapagos these days, on their way to the Marquesas. The Galapagos are not particularly welcoming to yachts.  The permits are expensive and there are lots of restrictions on what you can (and mainly […]

Galápagos

Isla Santa Cruz Having dragged Jemima away from the sea lions of San Cristobal, we sailed to Santa Cruz.  The doldrums continue to produce glassy calm seas for us, sailing weather best suited to diesel engines.  I am so looking forward to the trade winds further south. Santa Cruz is the centre of tourist tripping […]

Isla San Cristobal

The first thing I become aware of here in the Galapagos is that there are quite a lot of rules restricting my usual behaviour. We are used to exploring by yacht, dinghy, paddleboard and windsurfers.  Finding deserted anchorages, freediving with the fauna, spearing the odd fish for supper, swimming ashore and generally doing exactly as […]

Bound For Galapagos

Day 1 Farewell Panama. Thanks for everything! Our first full day at sea.  I think I already mentioned that this sea seems to be teeming with life. Today started with a fin whale close by as we left the last of Las Perlas astern. Then the manta rays started jumping.  Really jumping!  High back flips, […]

Quiero Viento

  It is very hot and the wind is not really enough to motivate us to hoist a sail. We are waiting for some breeze to take us 850 miles across the Pacific to the Galapagos. Our GRIB file forecasts are relentlessly light and variable.  So we have had a few days island hopping in […]

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